Recently my LV brandt made trip my meter differential (30mA) not General edf even if I unplug all devices connected to this counter.
By removing the LV I realized he was stuck in the socket to which he was connected. It to a little stick on it melted with black resin is behind the dishwasher. I test this jack to the ohmmeter and I realize it is ruined. I changed but the problem persists. I disconnect the filter area but the problem persists. I ask this step if the LV did not overheat as to melt a little decision I feel that this should not happen? in your opinion?
So I decided to look into the problem and I realize that the current jumps just two stages in the cycle and that if I manually advance the timer to skip these two steps everything works normally. I think that during these stages the water must be heated because it does not heat when I jumped. So I look for a problem of resistance. I unplug the resistance I run the dishwasher and then a miracle he does not jump cons but the programmer does not advance on the two stages where he blew the power.
I decided to dismantle the resistance and I plug it directly to 220 while keeping the land. The resistor heats very well and does not jump the stream.
I decided to put a light bulb (220V) instead of resistance. The current does not jump by the cons light does not stay blocked and the scheduler always the same pitch.
I realized there had a leak in the crankcase (with button reboot) so I unplugged the LV always starts the same thing (The current does not jump but the programmer still get stuck at the same pace). I decided to test the cutout has four son (pin 1 - Orange Pin 2 - Orange Pin 3 - brown/black, pin 4 - white/black). Pins 1 and 2 are the resistance, the pins 3 and 4 go to the programmer. I tested the pins 1 and 4 ohm - 0.5ohm, pins 2 and 3 - 0.5ohm, pins 1 and 3 - 3.5M├ęgaOhm, pins 2 and 4 - 3.5 Megaohm, pins 1 and 2 to 5 Megaohm, pins 3 and 4 - 5 Megaohm. I wonder if 3.5MOhm can be considered infinite or whether it may be responsible for my disjonctage. Also if I heat the crankcase with a lighter red button jumps and the current passes more between 2et3. This cutout is dead to you? Moreover I do not know how to prevent the escape of water there is on the junction between the crankcase and the tank because there is a seal which fit the cutout and everything returns to the tank. I try to put everything in place but it still leaks.